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When shopping for an engagement ring, some couples wonder if they should buy a pre-owned engagement ring. This article reviews the reasons that estate rings are a wonderful option for the conscious shopper who’s concerned about the ethics of purchasing a new, mined diamond.

What is an Estate Ring?

Let’s start by defining the term “estate ring.” Simply, estate jewelry is pre-owned jewelry (but “estate” sounds fancier, right?). There is no specific age attached to estate jewelry. If it’s pre-owned and being resold, it’s considered an estate piece. You might also see the terms “vintage” and “antique” when looking at pre-owned rings. Technically, a vintage ring is at least 50 years old, and an antique ring is over 100 years old, but both would be estate pieces. There is no singular reason why a piece of jewelry ends up on the resale market. It’s possible the previous owner passed away without an hier. It’s possible the original owner “upgraded” and sold their older set. And, of course, it’s possible the sale is the result of a breakup.

Should I Buy a Pre-Owned Engagement Ring?

Only you know if you are comfortable with the idea of purchasing an estate diamond. Typically, you won’t know the story behind the ring. Some buyers are uncomfortable with the idea of owning a ring that may or may not have been part of a breakup. Personally, I chose an estate diamond ring when my now-husband and I were ring shopping. I was not concerned about owning something that someone else wore, even though I don’t know the story of my ring. My husband and I are writing our own story and putting our own love and energy into the ring we picked. I chose my ring because, to be frank, I could get a larger stone for much, much less money. My estate ring is also without any of the environmental or human rights concerns that surround mined diamonds. It seemed like a win-win for me.

Things to Consider When Buying a Pre-owned Diamond Ring

There are an incredible amount of pre-owned diamond rings on the market. You can find them for sale on eBay, Etsy, at pawn shops, antique stores, jewelers, and specialty sites dedicated to selling pre-loved jewelry. Of course, it’s important to do your due diligence when shopping for a used ring. Ensure you are shopping legit sites with buyer protections in place. If shopping on a marketplace site like eBay, use your discretion when reviewing the sellers. Make sure they are well-reviewed and reliable (I personally suggest The Wilson Brothers, although there are many other phenomenal eBay sellers). Don’t be afraid to contact the seller to ask more questions about the ring — a legitimate, trustworthy seller is always happy to oblige. If you do purchase a pre-owned diamond online (I’ve purchased many this way!), you should take it to a jeweler once you receive it. The jeweler will inspect the ring, check that the prongs are solid, and confirm for you that the stone is real. It’s also worth mentioning that you can purchase an estate ring (or a loose pre-owned diamond) and work with a jeweler to set the stone in the new setting of your dreams.

Making the Decision to Buy an Estate Diamond

If price and ethics are both considerations for you, I highly suggest you rule pre-owned rings into your hunt. Not only can you get more rock for your dollar, you are making the most environmentally sound choice of all. There are no new materials needed — just a trip on the FedEx truck. As the saying goes, diamonds are forever. If you value owning a natural diamond but you have valid concerns about the ethics of buying new, pre-owned could be the perfect compromise for your forever ring.
If you’ve started the search for ethical engagement ring options, chances are you’ve heard some buzz around a stone known as moissanite. A common alternative to diamonds, moissanite is a beautiful stone in its own right. It is not cubic zirconia, nor is it a “fake diamond.” So — what is moissanite? Lots of jewelry lovers want the look of diamonds but are wary of supporting the diamond industy. If that’s you, moissanite is worth considering. Keep reading to learn more about what moissanite, its history, its traits, and why it makes a great stone for engagement rings.

What is Moissanite?

Despite sometimes being thought of as a “faux diamond” or “diamond simulant,” moissanite is a beautiful stone that isn’t as much a faux diamond as it is a real moissanite. In its natural form, its found only in small crystals. The moissanite that you find for sale is a lab-created gem made from crystalline silicon carbide. The fact that it’s manmade means it’s completely sustainable and doesn’t come with the same ethical or environmental concerns as natural mined diamonds. Moissanite is a 9.25 on the Mohs hardness scale, while a diamond is a 10. A stone with a hardness of 9.25 is still an exceptionally strong stone, as it’s unlikely to scratch and is suitable for everyday wear. Moissanite also doesn’t have a “cleavage plane” like a diamond, meaning it’s less likely to split or crack. Overall, it’s a very tough stone, making it a good option for jewelry you will wear every day — like an engagement ring! Natural moissanite tends to have a brown or yellow tint, similar to a warmer diamond. Lab-created moissanite comes in an array of colors, including colorless and near-colorless. It does come in grades similar to the way a diamond would, however, there is less variation in clarity and color due to the controlled environment in which it is created.

How Do Moissanites Compare to Diamonds?

Many people who are researching want to know — how does moissanite compare to diamonds? Is moissanite a better option than diamonds? Let’s break it down. Diamonds are graded on the “Three Cs” — cut, color, and clarity. Due to the lab-created nature of moissanite, there is much less variation in these “three Cs” than there would be with a mined diamond. For example, there is very little variation in the clarity of moissanites. They will always be “eye-clean,” meaning you will not be able to see imperfections inside the stone. As for cut, moissanites are available in all of the typical diamond shapes, including round brilliant, princess, emerald, and asscher. They are also cut in unique shapes designed to bring out even more of their natural “fire.” The cut can affect how “diamond-like” a moissanite appears. The more facets a moissanite has, the more light it will throw. For example, a round brilliant moissanite will disperse more colored flashes than a emerald cut. As I mentioned earlier, moissanites come in many colors, including blue, green, and yellow. They are also available in colorless (similar to diamond colors D – F) and near-colorless (diamond colors G – I) that most closely match the colorless traits of a diamond.

Does Moissanite Sparkle Like a Diamond?

Speaking of fire, one of the primary differences between moissanite and diamond is the way the light bounces out from the stone. Diamonds are known for their “brilliance,” which refers to their characteristic flashes of white. Moissanite, on the other hand, disperses more light than diamonds, giving them more “fire” (colored sparkles) than brilliance. Many people like this moissanite trait (who doesn’t want more sparkles?). Others prefer the white brilliance of a diamond. If you can see a few moissanites in person before commiting to one, I suggest it. That way, you will know if you are happy with the extra fiery sparkle that a moissanite gives.

Can People Tell if a Ring is Moissanite?

Another thought that many have is whether people will be able to tell that their moissanite is not a diamond. First, I’ll start by saying that I don’t think anyone should try to pass a non-diamond off as a diamond. Moissanites are beautiful in their own right, and there is no shame in choosing a more sustainable, environmentally friendly option for your jewelry. If you wear moissanite, own it! That said, no — the average person will not be able to tell the two stones apart. Aside from the additional fire offered by a moissanite, they are very similar looking gems.

Why are Moissanites Cheaper Than Diamonds?

Shoppers tend to use price as a gauge for quality, so a moissanite’s low price tag can actually serve as a deterrant for many people. However, in the case of moissanite, the price is being driven largely by demand. Shoppers still value and seek out more diamonds than they do alternatives like moissanite. Without a high demand, the supply is priced lower. The lower price of a moissanite is not reflective of a lack of quality or durability. Instead, it’s cheaper because fewer buyers are demanding it — for now. It’s becoming more and more sought out as more people realize its value, so it will likely become more expensive in the coming years as demand increases.

Is Moissanite Ethical?

Yes, moissanite in an ethical, conscious option for an engagement ring. It’s made in a lab, meaning it is without concerns about environmental harm. This also means there aren’t human rights concerns as there are with diamonds. If you value buying ethical jewelry, moissanite is a wonderful option.

Should You Pick a Moissanite For Your Engagement Ring?

Ultimately, the decision to pick a moissanite over a diamond is a matter of personal preference. Only you know what you’ll be happy wearing for decades to come. However, if you are on the fence about choosing a diamond (for ethical or budget reasons), but you’d still love to wear a bright, colorless stone on your finger, moissanite is worth a hard look.

Are diamonds ethical?

I’m talking about natural diamonds, those mined directly from the earth. There is growing knowledge around the potential ethical repercussions of the mined diamond trade. Many jewelry companies have launched campaigns to counter these claims and “clean up” the image of the mined diamond.

However, many savvy consumers are starting to lean away from natural diamonds. First, it’s difficult to know with certainty if any new, natural diamond is completely “clean.” Second, many consumers no longer buy into the idea that “natural is rare.” The truth is, natural diamonds are not rare. They are, however, generally over-priced and don’t hold their resale value as well as one might assume.

Modern technology has introduced new diamond alternatives to the market. Some of these are as durable, long-lasting, and beautiful as mined diamonds — and, in the case of lab-grown diamonds — physically and chemically the same as their mined counterparts. They are also generally less expensive, allowing people to get more rock for their buck.

Are diamonds ethical? Keep reading to learn more about the concerns of mined diamonds and why you should consider a diamond alternative for your engagement ring or jewelry.

Is Diamond Mining Harmful to the Earth?

In TL;DR terms, natural diamonds are borne from carbon that has been crystallized through eons of heat and pressure. They are then mined from the earth. This can be done by sifting through silt for diamonds that have come to the surface, or by mining from the ground or underwater via tunnels or pits.

The mining process itself has environmental concerns. Despite the natural diamond industry’s assertion to the opposite, it’s highly unlikely that lab-created diamonds or other man-made alternatives impact the environment in the same way that natural diamonds do.

The life cycle of exploring, drilling, harvesting, transporting, and selling diamonds uses significant resources.

Younger generations of consumers are more aware of these environmental concerns, and they play an important role when deciding what type of engagement ring stone to choose.

Are Diamonds Ethical? Are They Truly Conflict-free?

Environmental concerns aside, there continue to be ongoing human rights concerns surrounding natural diamonds. Illegal trading, unsafe mining practices, and abusive working conditions have created a serious problem in the diamond industry.

Conflict diamonds, also known as “blood diamonds,” are illegally traded diamonds often used to fund conflict in war-torn areas. Blood diamonds are often mined in extremely dangerous conditions using forced or child labor.

In the early 2000s, the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme (KPCS) was established as a regulatory, government-led diamond certification scheme. The goal of KPCS was to confront the blood diamond problem and prevent these diamonds from entering the mainstream market.

KPCS currently represents 81 countries. The process maintains strict guidelines, to which countries must comply in order to be represented and allow their diamonds to enter the mainstream trade. Since the KPCS was implemented, it is true that there are far fewer blood diamonds entering the market.

Congalese miners working a pit diamond field.
Congolese miners working one of the thousands of artisanal mines that cover the country. Photograph by Lynsey Addario for TIME

That said, there are ongoing concerns that the Kimberley Process may not be enough.

One concern is that the KPCS seems to focus more heavily on preventing diamonds from being used to fund rebel movements and armed groups — and not on preventing slave and child labor, dangerous working conditions, and grievous exploitation of human rights.

In recent years, the KPCS has allowed exportation of Zimbabwean diamonds, despite the diamonds being mined in highly abusive conditions. Further, KPCS only regulates the trade of rough stones. A diamond that has been partially or fully cut is no longer subject to the same trade regulations as rough stones.

There are also concerns that conflict diamonds are routinely smuggled into the supply chain alongside “clean” diamonds. It’s nearly impossible to track such an issue.

An article by the Human Rights Watch notes that, “it’s clearer than ever that the Kimberley Process is not up to the task” of ending the trade of blood diamonds. “The trade in diamonds still gives rise to serious human rights violations.”

How to Avoid Buying a Blood Diamond

Keep in mind that this website is a one-woman blog, and the opinions here are my own. My opinion is that there are no true conflict-free diamonds. It’s virtually impossible to know if a specific stone is “clean,” and purchasing a new, mined diamond still funnels money to an industry with an atrocious track record of gross human rights violations.

As I reseached options for my own engagement ring and other jewelry, I realized that it is not an industry I am willing to support. More and more consumers that I speak with are coming to the same conclusion.

Luckily, there are many alternatives to new diamonds. Since, as they say, diamonds are forever, you can opt for an estate diamond. You can choose a lab-created diamond, virtually identical in every way to its mined counterparts (but without the ethical concerns). Or, you can pick from the array of other man-made alternatives like moissanite.

Ultimately, consumers pull the strings. Diamonds are only valuable because as a society, we continue to believe they are rare and unparalleled — and are willing to spend outrageous amounts of money on them. As consumer preferences change, demand dwindles. Value reflects that demand, or lack thereof.

Younger generations (and a few from the older ones, too!) are wising up to the racket that is the natural diamond industry and shifting their buying power towards sustainable, conflict-free alternatives.

If you’ve been trying to answer the question, “Are diamonds ethical?” this site is for you. I hope this blog is a useful guide to help determine what an ethical engagement will look like for you.

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