Are diamonds ethical?

I’m talking about natural diamonds, those mined directly from the earth. There is growing knowledge around the potential ethical repercussions of the mined diamond trade. Many jewelry companies have launched campaigns to counter these claims and “clean up” the image of the mined diamond.

However, many savvy consumers are starting to lean away from natural diamonds. First, it’s difficult to know with certainty if any new, natural diamond is completely “clean.” Second, many consumers no longer buy into the idea that “natural is rare.” The truth is, natural diamonds are not rare. They are, however, generally over-priced and don’t hold their resale value as well as one might assume.

Modern technology has introduced new diamond alternatives to the market. Some of these are as durable, long-lasting, and beautiful as mined diamonds — and, in the case of lab-grown diamonds — physically and chemically the same as their mined counterparts. They are also generally less expensive, allowing people to get more rock for their buck.

Are diamonds ethical? Keep reading to learn more about the concerns of mined diamonds and why you should consider a diamond alternative for your engagement ring or jewelry.

Is Diamond Mining Harmful to the Earth?

In TL;DR terms, natural diamonds are borne from carbon that has been crystallized through eons of heat and pressure. They are then mined from the earth. This can be done by sifting through silt for diamonds that have come to the surface, or by mining from the ground or underwater via tunnels or pits.

The mining process itself has environmental concerns. Despite the natural diamond industry’s assertion to the opposite, it’s highly unlikely that lab-created diamonds or other man-made alternatives impact the environment in the same way that natural diamonds do.

The life cycle of exploring, drilling, harvesting, transporting, and selling diamonds uses significant resources.

Younger generations of consumers are more aware of these environmental concerns, and they play an important role when deciding what type of engagement ring stone to choose.

Are Diamonds Ethical? Are They Truly Conflict-free?

Environmental concerns aside, there continue to be ongoing human rights concerns surrounding natural diamonds. Illegal trading, unsafe mining practices, and abusive working conditions have created a serious problem in the diamond industry.

Conflict diamonds, also known as “blood diamonds,” are illegally traded diamonds often used to fund conflict in war-torn areas. Blood diamonds are often mined in extremely dangerous conditions using forced or child labor.

In the early 2000s, the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme (KPCS) was established as a regulatory, government-led diamond certification scheme. The goal of KPCS was to confront the blood diamond problem and prevent these diamonds from entering the mainstream market.

KPCS currently represents 81 countries. The process maintains strict guidelines, to which countries must comply in order to be represented and allow their diamonds to enter the mainstream trade. Since the KPCS was implemented, it is true that there are far fewer blood diamonds entering the market.

Congalese miners working a pit diamond field.
Congolese miners working one of the thousands of artisanal mines that cover the country. Photograph by Lynsey Addario for TIME

That said, there are ongoing concerns that the Kimberley Process may not be enough.

One concern is that the KPCS seems to focus more heavily on preventing diamonds from being used to fund rebel movements and armed groups — and not on preventing slave and child labor, dangerous working conditions, and grievous exploitation of human rights.

In recent years, the KPCS has allowed exportation of Zimbabwean diamonds, despite the diamonds being mined in highly abusive conditions. Further, KPCS only regulates the trade of rough stones. A diamond that has been partially or fully cut is no longer subject to the same trade regulations as rough stones.

There are also concerns that conflict diamonds are routinely smuggled into the supply chain alongside “clean” diamonds. It’s nearly impossible to track such an issue.

An article by the Human Rights Watch notes that, “it’s clearer than ever that the Kimberley Process is not up to the task” of ending the trade of blood diamonds. “The trade in diamonds still gives rise to serious human rights violations.”

How to Avoid Buying a Blood Diamond

Keep in mind that this website is a one-woman blog, and the opinions here are my own. My opinion is that there are no true conflict-free diamonds. It’s virtually impossible to know if a specific stone is “clean,” and purchasing a new, mined diamond still funnels money to an industry with an atrocious track record of gross human rights violations.

As I reseached options for my own engagement ring and other jewelry, I realized that it is not an industry I am willing to support. More and more consumers that I speak with are coming to the same conclusion.

Luckily, there are many alternatives to new diamonds. Since, as they say, diamonds are forever, you can opt for an estate diamond. You can choose a lab-created diamond, virtually identical in every way to its mined counterparts (but without the ethical concerns). Or, you can pick from the array of other man-made alternatives like moissanite.

Ultimately, consumers pull the strings. Diamonds are only valuable because as a society, we continue to believe they are rare and unparalleled — and are willing to spend outrageous amounts of money on them. As consumer preferences change, demand dwindles. Value reflects that demand, or lack thereof.

Younger generations (and a few from the older ones, too!) are wising up to the racket that is the natural diamond industry and shifting their buying power towards sustainable, conflict-free alternatives.

If you’ve been trying to answer the question, “Are diamonds ethical?” this site is for you. I hope this blog is a useful guide to help determine what an ethical engagement will look like for you.

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